In this blog post, we’ll examine the characteristics of flat pattern-making and three-dimensional pattern-making used in custom clothing production, and explore how Fabrican—a technology that creates fabric in spray form to produce garments tailored to an individual’s body shape—can complement traditional pattern-making methods.
Do you know the process behind making custom-made clothing? First, the process of making custom-made clothing is broadly divided into two categories: flat-pattern cutting, also known as “drafting,” and three-dimensional pattern cutting, also known as “draping.” In flat-pattern cutting, the wearer’s measurements are first taken, and a pattern is selected that fits the body shape or aligns with the designer’s intended design. Here, the term “pattern” is a fashion term referring to models, templates, or motifs, and it primarily means a garment’s pattern. When a designer wants to create a specific silhouette, they select the appropriate pattern, input the measurements to draft it, and then cut the fabric. Afterward, the pattern is refined through several rounds of basting, and the garment is completed with a final fitting. Three-dimensional draping is a method in which fabric is draped directly over the human body or a mannequin, cut, shaped, and then sewn. Unlike flat pattern-making—which estimates garment dimensions based on body measurements—three-dimensional draping allows for direct adjustment of the fabric’s shape on the actual body or mannequin, making it easier to achieve a silhouette that fits the individual’s body perfectly.
This entire custom clothing production process has a single goal: to find a silhouette that best fits the wearer’s body. While flat-pattern cutting is relatively simpler than three-dimensional cutting and is primarily used by beginners, three-dimensional cutting—though more difficult and labor-intensive—allows for the creation of a more natural silhouette. Meanwhile, Fabrican is a technology that creates nonwoven fabric on the spot by spraying a liquid fiber suspension through a spray gun or aerosol can, causing the fibers to bond together. A variety of fibers, including natural and synthetic ones, can be used, and characteristics such as shape, texture, and color can be varied by adjusting the spraying method and the composition of the material. Consequently, it demonstrates the potential to produce clothing tailored to the body’s shape by spraying directly onto the human body or a three-dimensional form, bypassing some of the cutting and sewing processes required in flat-pattern cutting or three-dimensional pattern cutting. Currently, Fabrican is developing the technology for commercialization in the apparel and design sectors and is also developing methods to produce garments tailored to the wearer’s body type and needs using robotic spraying technology. Furthermore, since fabrics created via the spray method can achieve surface finishes and textures distinct from conventional fabrics, they hold the potential to create new forms of beauty. Of course, for this technology to completely replace existing cutting methods, challenges remain to be addressed, such as the durability of the materials, their feel and texture, and the diversity of forms and functions that can be achieved. However, the advancement of spray-on fabric technology may present new possibilities for the fashion industry by harmonizing with—rather than replacing—traditional flat and three-dimensional cutting methods. The feel of a garment made solely using traditional cutting methods, the feel of one made solely using Fabrican, and the feel of one created by harmoniously combining both methods will all be distinct. As this technology advances, designers will be able to express the forms and feels they envision with ever greater precision. I believe that the development of new materials and fibers will lead to the discovery of new fabrics, which in turn can play a crucial role in pioneering an innovative fashion market in the future.
